Quick facts destination guide.
We'll give you the key to open the doors of this magnificent land.
Useful tips and informations given to you by people who love this land.
It is the wide green area of the countryside, with many small ancient towns and country villages.
Its name takes after the Vara River, that crosses the valley before flowing into the Magra River.
RICCO DEL GOLFO
It is the first town you meet if taking the Aurelia, passing the panoramic road that passes by the hill of La Foce on our way from La Spezia towards Genova; today there is an easier way to reach Riccò Del Golfo and the Vara Valley, a series of 2 tunnels that depart from the nighborhood of La Chiappa, in the northern part of La Spezia, and cut off the hill of La Foce.
Riccò del Golfo was built in 1808, and became the main-town ruling the territories of Ponzò and Carpena.
The main town anciently depended on the Ponzò Castle, and was used as a road-house.
There was on old house there, a filial of Pieve di Pignone.
During the 12th and 13th centuries, Ponzò became very important thanks to its connection with the coast: the Estensi dominated it, so theMalaspina and many other feudatories allied with Genova and Pisa, untilthe definitive joining with the Republic of Genova.
The fraction of Carpena, where Genova' s Stronghold was situated ever since 1273, lost its jurisdiction on La Spezia in 1343; and in 1371 it passed under La Spezia's own stronghold as it is today (province of La Spezia).
Things to see
Ponzò ancient town, still in its medieval structure of a fortress: it is made of houses that form a circle plan; the walls of the houses form a single surface interrupted, once in a while, by narrow entrance streets; the Churches of S. Cristoforo, S. .Caterina and S. Bartolomeo, in Ponzò; the Church of S. Rocco, in Quaratica, and the Church of S. Benedetto, in the homonymous fraction; S. Gottardo's Sanctuary between Valdipino andPonzò, and the Madonna of Agostina's Sanctuary between Quaratica and Valdipino (16th c.).
From the Aurelia, after passing Riccò, you can take the provincial road to Pignone, that passing alongside Soviore's Sanctuary, leads you to Monterosso and Levanto.
PIGNONE
This lovely village in the countryside already existed before the Romanic Era.
It was finely connected with the coast and it represents the one and only primitive village known in all of east Liguria.
Things to see
The historical part of the town, S. Maria Assunta's Church (14th c.), the Medieval Bridge, the Renaissance Loggia, the Churches of Madonna di Trezzo (on the road to Corvara) and Madonna di Ponte (on the road to Monterosso), the historical town of Casale with a Medieval Bridge, the remains of the Corvara Castle (14th c.), S. Michele Church (4th century, restored in the 18th c.) archaeological remains of the primitive installment are kept in the Civic Museum of La Spezia.
Going back onto the Aurelia and following it, after Padivarma, you will meet Borghetto Vara and Carrodano.
BORGHETTO VARA
Founded by the "Brugnatesi" at the end of 1200, it was the mostimportant road-house on the postal way that connected La Spezia toGenova, taking the place of the old Aurelia.
The founders, in order to avoid the Count Bishop's interference, asked Genova for protection.
Due to its strategical position, the town was almost entirely destroyed by bombs during the 2nd World War.
Things to see
S. Nicolò's Church (12th c., restored in the 18th c.) in Ripalta; the ossific cave in Cassana.
CARRODANO
It Is the last town of the Province of La Spezia you will meet, while going down the Aurelia. It is made of two separate groups of houses: Carrodano Superiore (High) and Carrodano Inferiore (Low).
Its origin is probablypre-romanic, its name is supposed to be referred to the movable wagoncamp, that came from the Padana Plane, after the barbarian invasion in the 4th century b.C.
During the Middle-Ages it belonged to the Da Passano's, a noble family who was granted immunity by the Republic of Genova.
Things to see
S. Bartolomeo's Church (14th c.); Madonna di Roverano's Sanctuary. After Mattarana you reach the Passo del Bracco, from where the Aurelia goes down to Genova's east coast. From Mattarana you can also get to Carro.
CARRO
This town probably has a Romanic origin, it is situated along the way that connects Val di Vara to Piacentino.
During the late Middle-Ages, Carro fought against the nobles of the town, and became an importantStronghold of the Republic of Genova (it once depended on Genova in 1229), and it was self-governed from the half of the 15th c. to the end of the 17th century.
Afterwards, it followed Genova and joined the Reign of Sardegna after the Napoleon era, in 1814.
Things to see
Cerrata's Sanctuary, S. Lorenzoís Church (rebuilt like the 15th century church that once stood there), S. Giorgio in Castello, S. Maria in Ziona (13th c.); in the surrounding small towns you can admire some apotropaics faces sculptured out of stone and fit in some imposing gates.
BRUGNATO
Reachable from Borghetto Vara, it originated from a Benedettine abbey, and the Briniati were called for to cultivate the land around it.
The Briniate were a nomadic society coming from the nearby Ligurian hills.
The abbey became a diocese in 1133 under the jurisdiction of Genova's Metropolitan Church and it gave a start to Brugnato's history. The diocese was absorbed by La Spezia, at the begining of this century.
Things to see The medieval houses in the historical part of the town; the Cathedral of the Saints Pietro, Lorenzo and Colombano (an ancient cemetery basilica rebuilt in the 8th century and restored during the 11th and 12th centuries); the Episcopal Palace, and the "Chiostro del Seminario".
From Brugnato, following two different routes, you can get to Sesta Godano and Varese Ligure, or to Rocchetta Vara and Zignago.
SESTA GODANO
It is a town made of smaller ones, it originates from the Middle-Ages.
It was free until 1256, in this year it joined the Repubblica of Genova.
For a brief period in the 1500's, the Malaspina took over, but the Republic of Genova soon defeated them.
Things to see
The fortified village with what remains of the octagonal Tower; S. Mary Assunta's Church, a 1700's remake ofthe ancient Pieve of Robiano; the historical town (centri storici) of Chiusola, Cornice, Groppo and Rio; in Groppo, there are anthropomorpous bas-reliefs sculptured out of are-naria.
Sesta Godano is connected with Zeri Village (Small Skying Resort), therefore with Pontremoli (High Lunigiana), through the evocative Rastrello Pass, where a monument to the fallen in the liberation war, World War II, has been built recently.
VARESE LIGURE
The "Registrum Curiae" ofthe Genova Diocese, in 1031, named a large jurisdiction, including the upper part of Val di Vara, "Plebs Variae"and "Cesigne".
But the first installment surely goes back further in time, by the same diocese however, when forests were cut down in order to cultivate the land. In the valley a religious center grew, and trade activity prospered.
Aside from brief dominations by the Republic of Genova, by Piccinino and Landi, the Fieschi Family, nobles from Lavagna, remained feudatories of this town until 1547: in those years the Rotondo Village (13th c.) was built, along with: the Castle's high Tower (built by order of Niccolò Piccinino in 1436), and the Landi Donjon (1472-1476).
From 1548 Varese Ligure joins the Republic of Genova, after Gian Luigi Fieschi's conspiracy against Andrea Doria failed. The Republic of Genova drew the "Statute of Varese" which would settle their union.
Up to the bigining of the 1800ís, Varese had its Podesteria, with administrative, civil and criminal authority.
Things to see
The Country Museum of Cassego; Rotondo Village in the maintown; the medieval bridge of Grecino, the Ferrari Palace in Vittorio Emanuele square; S. Giovanni Battistaís Church (15th c.) and S. Filippo Neriís Church; the oratory of Saints Rocco and Antonio (17th c.); in Buto anthropomorph bas-rieliefs sculptured in arenaria.
From Varese Ligure you can go to Sestri Levante (province of Genova) through the Velva Pass, where a sanctuary from 1700,s stands.
Or you can go up to the Pass of Cento Croci, which brings you to Parmense.
This latter pass is situated in a wonderful agricultural and pastoral area, and was in the middle of the Resistence struggle against the nazi-fascists: a monument was built in honour to the partisan-soldiers who died.
BEVERINO
It is reachable by taking a road, going off the Aurelia, which runs through Foce and Riccò del Golfo; today there is an easier way to reach Beverino and the Vara Valley: a series of 2 tunnels that depart from the nighbourhood of La Chiappa, in the northern part of La Spezia, and cut off the hill of La Foce.
Beverino is a typical town with houses scattered around the inland, crossed by many cheerful torrents which flow into the Vara.
The historical part of this town is situated up on a hill, and it is fortified: it was once ruled over by the Da Vezzano's, in 1247 it was left to the Republica of Genova, which granted the town immunity and the chance to have itís own town hall and be self-governed.
Things to see
The borough of Beverino-Castle, the entrance gate (11th and 12th c.) and the Romantic-Era Church of S. Cipriano (12th c.); the fortified village with surrounding walls and entrance gate at Bracelli (12th c.).
FOLLO
A village with Medieval origins, built on a hill from which it dominated the valleys of Vara and Magra.
Once a Luni Bishop's property, and part of their defence system; it was later given to the Repubic of Genova, during the Middle-Ages, in exchange of immunity and a large jurisdiction.
It has a farmer life tradition; it however welcomes industrial installments on the Plane of Follo and new residential areas.
Things to see
The borough of Follo and Tivegna; S. Martino Church, built before the 10th century with beautiful paintings of the 15th century.
Back to top
The Val di Magra is a beautiful valley set between green hills, mountains and the sea.
The geographic area of the Val di Magra includes the Magra River basin and its affluents.
Part of this area is included in the territory of Lunigiana, once the Diocese of Luni.
The Magra River, together with the hilltop castles which follow its course, form a rich and homogeneous landscape.
Things to see in the Val di Magra
Ancient monuments, famous museums and interesting cultural events can be found in every town in this area.
Among these towns are the strongholds and historical centres of Arcola, Trebiano and Vezzano Ligure.
In Castelnuovo Magra, the remains of a Malaspina castle can be found. A painting attributed to Brueghel, "Salita al Calvario", is located in the parish church.
Ortonovo, another hilltop town, has an interesting medieval centre, with an elliptic town plan.
Luni, an ancient Roman city, is located near Ortonovo. Roman ruins, an interesting archaeological museum, the remains of an amphitheatre and the "Basilica", can all be admired in Luni.
The first town we encounter ascending the Magra River is Ameglia.
Ameglia was a strategic medieval hilltop village, built on the delta of the Magra. Today it is a quiet town with an interesting historical centre.
Marinella is a local seaside village.
All the activities and facilities associated with a resort of this type: sandy beaches, bathing establishments, easy footpaths, as well as, hotels and restaurants, can be found here. It offers a pleasant stay for everyone.
The territory of the Montemarcello-Magra Park includes: lakes, rivers, mountains and of course the ever present sea. It is possible to practice many outdoor sports, such as: hiking along the footpaths; boating; sailing; fishing or just relaxing in the open air.
SARZANA
Sarzana is set in the fertile Magra River Valley, of which it is the most important town. It has an interesting artistic heritage, as well as cultural and tourist events, which make it a lively and fascinating town to visit all year round.
Art Exhibitions, Food and Wine Festivals.
There are many food and wine festivals, as well as antique fairs and art exhibitions in this area. Sarzana is famous for its many antique shops and workshops where local artisans restore furniture.
The "Mostra Nazionale dell’Antiquariato", a national antique exhibition, it is held in August.
The Fortezza Firmafede, also called the Citadella, hosts this important exhibition.
The "Soffitta nella Strada", takes place at the same time. It is an antique open air market. It fills the town streets with hundreds of stands containing antiques, as well as the work of artists and artisans.
The local wine and food festivals include many Ligurian specialties, such as: "pesto" (a sauce made from crushed basil, garlic, pine nuts, cheese and olive oil); "farinata di ceci" (chick pea pancake); "torta di riso" (a rice pie); "torta di faro" (a pie made with a special variety of grain); excellent olive oil, Vermentino wine and other DOC wines from the hills of Luni.
The "Fiera delle Nocciole", the hazelnut fair, is another event which shouldn’t be missed. It takes place on the Sunday before Palm Sunday. During the fair, Sarzana becomes a colourful bazaar, with good of all kinds on sale.
Traces of the Past
The Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta is located in the centre of Sarzana in via Mazzini. It was built on the ruins of the parish church of San Basilio.
The collection of paintings and artefacts found inside the cathedral constitute a veritable lesson in art history.
Some of the works which can be found in the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta are: sculptures and paintings by Domenico Fiasella, also called "Il Sarzana"; a terracotta work by Della Robbia and a crucifix by Mastro Guglielmo. The crucifix is perhaps the most important work in the cathedral. It is painted in Romanic style and is said to be the oldest crucifix, painted on wood, existing in the world.
The Sant’Andrea Church is also located in Via Mazzini. During the restoration of the church, an ancient oven used for the fusion of metal was found.
The Fortezza of Castruccio Castracani guards Sarzana from a hilltop. The Fortress has an unusual triangular shape. According to a local legend, a ghost haunts the fortress on full moon nights.
VEZZANO LIGURE
Vezzano Ligure is located in a panoramic position at the head of the Magra and Vara Valleys.
Motorway Exit: Motorway A12; Exit Vezzano Ligure.
Train Station: Vezzano Ligure (info: www.trenitalia.com)
Buses: www.atclaspezia.it
What to see and do
Vezzano Ligure includes two villages, Vezzano Basso and Vezzano Alto.
Both villages were built in strategic positions overlooking the Magra Valley.
In the Middle Ages, Vezzano was under the domain of the Lords of Vezzano.
Many buildings from this period are still intact.
The most important remaining construction is the Pentagonal Tower in the Malaspina family castle.
Other interesting sites include, the Baroque Parish Church of and San Sebastiano in Vezzano Basso and the Church of in Vezzano Alto.
A beautiful polychromatic stone paved piazza, with an ancient central well, is located in front of the Church of Nostra Signoria del Soccorso in Vezzano Alto.
Hiking, cycling paths and horse riding are some of the activities to be found in the Parco Regionale di Montemarcello-Magra, located along the Magra River below Vezzano (info: www.parcomagra.it).
Today, Vezzano Ligure is a quiet town.
It offers a perfect holiday stay for those who love the simple pleasures of local cuisine and country traditions.
CASTELNUOVO MAGRA
Castelnuovo Magra is located in the Magra Valley, near the Bettigna Stream Valley.
Castelnuovo is not far from Sarzana and the Magra River Delta.
Motorway Exit: Motorway A12, Sarzana Exit.
Train Station: Luni (nfo: www.trenitalia.com)
Buses: www.atclaspezia.it
What to see and do
Castelnuovo Magra was founded by the Bishops of Luni in the 12th century for strategic purposes.
The historical centre is located on a hill surrounded by the splendid Alpi Apuane.
The architecture of Castelnuovo is layered with overlapping historical periods.
A medieval hamlet, 16th century buildings and the turris magna, the corner tower of the "Palazzo Vescovile" can all be found in the historical centre.
The view from Castelnuovo Magra is breathtaking.
It spans the lower Magra Valley, reaching the Tyrrhenian Coast, all the way to Versilia.
The surrounding hills are filled with olive trees and vineyards.
The Enoteca of Liguria and Lunigiana is located in the cellars of the town hall. Famous local wines can be tasted here (info: www.enotecapubblica.it ).
Numerous restaurants, offering typical "Lunigiana" cuisine, can also be found in the area.
Castelnuovo Magra is one of the four towns crossed by the Via Francigena, according to ancient documents (info: www.viafrancigena.eu).
The town of Castelnuovo Magra has been awarded the Bandiera Arancione (the Orange Flag), by the Touring Club Italiano.
The Bandiera Arancione is an award given to small inland towns for the quality of their tourist attractions and environment.
Back to top
For all lovers of authentic flavors and unspoiled nature Lunigiana is the place still able to offer unique emotions and relaxed holidays.
Many of its "Borghi" (old villages) are worth a visit.
Life pace in these places is still slow and regulated by sun and moon natural sequences.
You can still wander thought their streets and watch people sitting in the square on chairs taken from home or on doorsteps.
You can have a glass of wine at local "osteria" (pub) pleasantly accompanied by the rough voices of villagers gathered around a table playing cards and exchanging words on daytime work in the fields or just friendly quarreling on card games.
Do not forget saying "Buongiorno" or "Buonasera" when you encounter a villager in the street and remember they will be always happy to hear you utter as foreigner Italian words with a strange accent…so try speaking Italian whenever you are offered the chance to do it.
Tavernelle, Crespiano, Filetto, Virgoletta, Prota, Licciana Nardi and Bastia are typical Lunigiana villages not to be missed.
Not too far from Liguria Cinque Terre Riviera, it is a mice solution for visiting both Northern Tuscany and Eastern Liguria and having a good time discovering culture, food and old traditions.
VILLAFRANCA DI LUNIGIANA
It is one of the largest municipalities of the area and it belongs to the territories of Massa Carra Province, 35 km from Massa, 120 km from Florence and only 30 km from La Spezia.
It is located on the Via Francigena, the Roman way that connected Rome to France, and it has maintained part of its historical Medieval centre.
It has an rawly interesting Ethnographic Museum that shows how life was lived in Lunigiana until recent times.
Not to be missed nearby Mocrone village with its small Church of San Maurizio, dating back 13th-14th century.
LICCIANA NARDI
This lovely village rises in the lower Lunigiana area.
The place name probably comes from the compound of "Licciana", coming this latter from the Latin proper name of person "Licius", and of the specification "Nardi" added in 1933 in honour of Anacarsi Nardi (1800-1844), a patriot hero of the "Italian Risorgimento".
The territory of Licciana Nardi was populated since ancient times, due to its strategic position close to the city of Aulla and the Garfagnana area.
The official foundation of the village occurred around the XI-th century as a place where some trading activities with other close localities took place.
During the two next centuries Licciana Nardi consolidated under the jurisdiction of the Malaspina's Counts, who started to fortify the village by building a ring of walls equipped with towers, and an imposing castle.
Under the Malaspina's domination the village increased its economic and politic importance, becoming one of the main centre of the Lunigiana area.
From the XV-th and XVII-th century the ancient fortifications were restored whereas the Malaspina's Castle was transformed into a residential villa.
At that time, in addition to carry out a flourishing trade, the community of Licciana Nardi interested in the rural cultivations and especially in a valuable vine production. The period of the Malaspina's domination lasted up to the beginning of the XIX-th century, when the Napoleonic troops invaded the territory, ending the feudalism.
The French occupation ended in 1814, when the Treaty of Vienna assigned Licciana Nardi to the Dukedom of Modena, governed this latter by the Estensi's family.
This started a series of rebellions against the Estensi's power lasting up to the Unity of Italy occurred on 1861 by the action of the King Vittorio Emanuele II of Savoia. Among the most important monuments to see in Licciana Nardi we point out here the Chiesa Parrocchiale (Parish Church), the Monumento Funebre di Anacarsi Nardi (Anacarsi Nardi's Funerary Monument) and the Medieval Castles.
Among famous people who were borgn in Licciana Nardi we remind here the patriot Anacarsi Nardi (1800-1844), who distinguished for the brave proved during the insurrections that took place in Calabria.
Among the numerous celebrations periodically taking place in Licciana Nardi we point out the "Chestnut's Feast" held yearly on the third Sunday of October and during which it is possible to taste good typical courses based on chestnuts cooked, according to local traditional recipes.
Back to top